Communities
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Melrose
Last Tango in Melrose
By Dan Vichorek
Reprinted from a 1981 Montana Magazine article and also an essay in the book Last Tango in Melrose Montana available from Far Country Press, Helena, Montana
A friend of mine who pummels a guitar in a country-western band was telling me how music lovers almost killed him in Melrose one New Year’s Eve. It wasn’t a violent homicide attempt, just a near meltdown based on a misunderstanding.
“So, where the hell is Melrose?” somebody asks. It’s good they asked, because before we can tell you what happened to my friend, I have to explain to you about Melrose. Melrose is one of those towns so small that a road atlas won’t tell you how many people live there. Situated between Dillon and Butte, Montana, it used to be a hang-out for speed cops before the interstate highway passed it up like a dirty shirt. Now dogs can sleep on the main street and fanatical fly fishermen stay in its motel in season.
The fly fishermen rise to the bait of the nearby Big Hole River and walk around wearing several hundred dollars-worth of the very latest fashion in trout catcher essentials. By mid-fall the fisherfolk are gone and the town is left to its rightful citizens, the cow people—cowboys, cowgirls, cowmen, and Cowbelles—a hearty crowd. Who the leaders of this society may be these days I don’t know, but some years back the cow folk had an acknowledged king. They put up a sign at one end of Melrose that said, “Welcome to Melrose, Home of Benny Reynolds, World’s All-Around Champion Cowboy.”
My guitar-picking friend blamed his business manager for taking him to Melrose. His business manager probably took the band there because he knew what a center of musical appreciation it was. This may come as a surprise to some people, who size up the lone street and see the potential for one, maybe two, juke boxes in town. My friend and his associates had signed up to play for the New Year’s dance. They showed up, rigged up their gear and got set for their standard country-western gig. There was a good turnout. The men in the crowd got their clothes the same place Benny got his: big hats, fancy shirts, dress-up boots that would become work boots in a few seasons, string ties and clean Levis that hadn’t faded yet.
The ladies were dressed in their cowgirl finery with their hair glistening and piled on their heads like cotton candy. Outside it was 20 below with a foot of crunchy snow and rabbits were chasing their shadows around the cottonwoods in the moonlight.
Inside, the band tuned up with “The Orange Blossom Special,” and the cowboys and cowgirls danced up a storm fitten to knock the place down. The evening wore on. “Auld Lang Syne” came and went on schedule, and by 2 a.m. the band had about played itself to a frazzle and began packing the instruments to go home. Couples stood around looking puzzled by the band’s silence, and presently a large cowhand approached the bandstand and said, “You better keep playin’.” There was something about the way he said it that made us think it was a good idea, my friend said. So, the band tuned up again and played another hour, burning the players down below the numb stage. Again, they started putting their tools away, and another cowboy came up and said, “You better keep playin’.” “It was as good advice as we could ask for,” my friend said, so they tuned up again, wondering if they were ever going to see their wives and children again. In a last-ditch effort, they decided to see if they could wear out the clientele by playing extra fast. “We
played as fast as we could,” my friend said. “We played the slow songs fast and the fast songs faster. ”The crowd loved it. “They damn near blew the walls out,” according to my witness.
After an hour of this, the dancers were getting well warmed up but the band was burned out beyond exhaustion. “We looked like melted wax statues sliding down a wall,” my friend said. But they couldn’t quit yet. Not while those dancers were “whirling around and jumping up and down and yahooing.”“The way those pointy-toed boots were coming down on that floor, an extra fast snake with an urgent appointment couldn’t have got across there without being trampled into mincemeat.
It didn’t look good for us. ”The band tried to keep playing. “We weren’t doing very good. Like I said, we were sort of melting down to the floor, and songs that were supposed to be played in 2/4 time were oozing out at an average no faster than 4/4. Sometimes you could hear the bass going brrrrrrrnnnnnngggggg, and the others going twang twaaang twaaaasaang, and that was about all,” said my friend. The customers soon grew tired of these ragged tunes and began submitting requests.
“They were asking for songs that nobody ever heard of, and probably ain’t been written yet,” my friend sighed. Clearly he and his band would not win much money on “Name That Tune.” They played on, the best they could. Their feeble twanging and puny appearance led some in the crowd to believe they needed some waking up, and some big cowboys sought to refresh the band by sloshing beer on them. “They’d go whirling by, a lady in their arms and a beer in their hands, and they’d reach out and spray us with a little of it. ”These beer showers worked pretty good the first few times, my friend said, and they woke up the band so fast that a tune that had slipped down to about 4/16 time would speed up to about 2/4 for a few minutes after each slosh.
They couldn’t understand what was wrong with us,” my friend said, “so they gave us the same first aid they’d give to a guy who’d been rolled on by a bull. Lacking buckets of cold water, cold beer was the best they could do. ”This went on for some time, until the band clearly was on the verge of needing an ambulance. A few couples were slow dancing, in some sort of time with the few tortured notes still escaping from the band. Presently even these die-hards gave up, and the men were saying, “Yup, it’s just about time to get home and milk that cow,” and the women gathered up the sheepskin coats and sleeping babies from the back rooms, and everybody got ready to leave. A very large cowboy said, loudly, “Let’s have a hand for the band,” and they passed a size 10½ Stetson through the crowd until it was full of money, which they put into a paper bag and gave to the band. Then they all went outside and started their frosty pickups and big clouds of exhaust vapor rolled over everybody as they scraped their windshields and wives asked husbands if they were going to get home without running into the ditch this time. Out in Michigan, the sunrise was hurrying to get to Melrose in a couple of hours. “Did that bag of money make it all worthwhile?” I asked. “Well,” my friend said, “I’ll tell you one thing. I ain’t never going back to Melrose.”
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Philipsburg
Philipsburg and The Flint Creek Valley: Silver and Sapphires
By Patrick Shea
In the 1860s, as large deposits of gold, silver, copper, and other valuable minerals were discovered in Granite County, many mining settlements sprung up along creek beds and mountainsides. As a reminder of that frenzied search for prosperity, today, 24 ghost towns are left scattered throughout the county. The town of Philipsburg, founded in 1867 and named for Peter Deiesheimer, is the lone survivor and remains intact and lively. The key to this longevity is an inherently beautiful location coupled with its inhabitants’ devotion to preserving and enhancing the area’s rich history.
The most renowned and profitable of the mining operations was located southeast of town, now home to Granite Ghost Town State Park. When the upper levels of the Granite Mountain mine were being developed, a massive silver deposit was found at about 200 feet of depth. Soon regarded as the greatest silver bonanza of its time, the mine went on to produce $20 million in silver between 1885 and 1893. Preserved at the state park are historic structures like the superintendent's house and the ruins of the miners’ Union Hall.
Silver wasn’t the only valued mineral that brought fortune-seekers to the Philipsburg area. Rock Creek—a major tributary of the Clark Fork River— flows along the nearby Sapphire Mountains, named for the prized blue gemstone found in the creek in 1892. At the Gem Mountain Mine southwest of town, small round sapphires were initially sought after and shipped to Switzerland where they were used as watch bearings. While the emergence of synthetic sapphires had significantly slowed sapphire mining operations by the 1930s, Gem Mountain remains active and has rebranded itself, providing travelers with a chance to try their hand at sifting through gravel to find blue, mint green, yellow, orange, red, and pink treasures.
The heart of Phillipsburg evokes a scene from the old west that has been given a vibrant new paint job. Informational plaques detailing the previous uses of various buildings give insight into what a boom town it once was... everything from a ballroom to a basketball court to a masonic temple, grand hotel, opera house, and general store. Everywhere you turn is a reminder of how much the world has changed around these storefronts. Most of the buildings have seen occupants come and go, but the Philipsburg Theatre, founded in 1891, still hosts a variety of live entertainment to this day. Having stood the test of time and served the community through thick and thin, it has earned the title of the oldest continually operating theatre in Montana.
While some who travel to Philipsburg come for the architecture, immersive museums, and ghost towns, still others come seeking recreation and mountainous thrills. Just a few miles down the road is Georgetown Lake, a reservoir of Flint Creek with several beaches and campsites managed by the US Forest Service. With the backdrop of the Anaconda Range to the east, Georgetown Lake is a great place to beat the summer heat and gaze at mountain peaks. On the opposite side is Discovery Mountain, a ski hill that offers lift-access mountain biking in the summer months. Its slopes are seen looming over town to the southeast, and evening conversations at the Phillipsburg Brewery often consist of pedalling down flow trails or gliding through tree runs, depending on the season.
The mining boom that put Philipsburg on the map is long over and tourism has been adopted as the new means of supporting the local economy. The main drag on Broadway Street with its colorful Victorian “Painted Lady” architecture features museums, a library, gem stores, a quilt shop, a bakery, a sweet shop, ice cream stores, several pubs, a craft brewery, cafes, a motel and an RV Park. One of downtown’s attractions is the Law Enforcement Museum, where old Granite County booking records and police gear are kept, including an actual cell extracted from the defunct Anaconda prison.
Although Philipsburg may not be on the top of every typical tourist’s list, those looking for a more immersive Montana experience will not be disappointed by the small-town charm that it has to offer. The town’s placement roughly between Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks makes it a viable option for people looking to get off the beaten path and dive deeper into the region's history, inspiring scenery, and endless opportunities for outdoor recreation.
Patrick Shea is a University of Montana Journalism graduate student for UM’s This is Montana Community Vitality Project